Dr. Martens has proven one of the most enduring and adaptable footwear brands in the world. Beloved by the ska-loving skinheads in Britain in the 1970s through to today, the brand’s boots are instantly recognisable. At Cannes Lions, Dr. Martens’ global creative director Darren McCoy lifted the kind on the brand’s chameleon-like appeal.
Interviewed on stage by Alli Hannan, CEO of Creative Equals, here are some of the top snippets from the session.
Dr. Martens: From Subculture to Mainstream
“My first pair was a 1460 boot, inspired by my uncle, a black skinhead deeply immersed in ska reggae culture. Despite living in a predominantly black area of Sheffield, he always stood out in the crowd,” said McCoy.
Hannan initiated a dialogue on the significance of subcultures, highlighting their role in rebelling against societal norms. Dr. Martens, originally rooted in subcultural movements, have now transcended into the mainstream, embodying a spirit of individuality and non-conformity.
“It’s about standing out from the crowd and not giving AF. Our brand’s essence is intertwined with music and art, empowering wearers to express their unique identities. You can often gauge a person’s footwear choice by their overall style, indicating our connection to both the margins and the mainstream,” added McCoy.
Sustaining Global Relevance in Subcultures
“Subcultures persist through the intersection of attitude, style, music, and street culture,” said McCoy.
“We leverage these elements and integrate them into evolving youth trends. Youth culture drives trends, and we attentively listen to this demographic. By staying on the fringe of street culture, we connect with those engaging with our brand, drawing inspiration from museums, art, the street, and music.
The pair then discussed Dr. Martens’ lineup of shoes as a canvas for collaboration.
“With 64 years of heritage, the power of collaboration has been integral to our brand since day one. Our past continually inspires our future. We collaborate closely with our consumers, making the boot a canvas for personal expression. Notable collaborations, such as with Supreme since 2017, feel natural and help us stay relevant. We explore new partnerships annually to introduce innovative products,” said McCoy, referencing its collaboration with Marc Jacobs which saw the 1460 boot reimagined to emphasise inclusivity and its Basquiat boot that epitomised the intersection of art and identity, reinforcing the brand’s cultural relevance.
McCoy also touched on the boot’s relevance within queer communities.
“Our collaboration with Erin McGee, Supreme’s VP of Design, produced the ‘femme fatale hardcore edge of culture’ steel toe cap 1461 shoe. This partnership underscores our commitment to alternative scenes like grunge and punk. Another iconic collaboration with Rick Owens introduced a boot featuring standard elements but with a unique construction, aligning with techno music and a dystopian, futuristic aesthetic. This represents a true evolution of the boot,” he said.
The session showed that Dr. Martens has an unwavering connection to subcultures and its ability to adapt and innovate while maintaining its heritage. By embracing collaboration and listening to diverse cultural influences, Dr. Martens continues to stay at the heart of both marginal and mainstream culture, ensuring its iconic status endures.
Reporting by Chloe Noel De Kerbrech.
